Add Subtle Shape with a Draped Pleat Skirt

A draped pleat skirt with detail at the side can add shape or softness to the hip silhouette.

sketch showing woman wearing peach-colored skirt with draped pleats at the hips

This style might inspire you to use deep, drape-y
pleats in a new way.

If made in a very soft, fluid fabric (ie, soft silk), it could be a very nice evening skirt “as is”.

In a firm fabric, it creates a structured pleat configuration that adds shape to a "straight", athletic figure (as shown).

In a softer fabric, the pleats drape and fall more, adding interest without adding width to a shapelier, hour-glass figure.

Either way, it adds interest to a simple, straight (or somewhat pegged) skirt!

This draft is a bit complicated, so take your time!  I'd suggest practicing the process with a quarter-scale pattern before trying it with your full-sized dress/skirt block. 

And this is definitely a case in which a muslin mock-up is essential, to ensure that the draping is flattering on your figure.

Wash the muslin first if you're going for a soft, drapey effect. If you want firm, structured pleats for shape and width at the hips, the muslin should not be washed. In either case, press the muslin to remove wrinkles that could interfere with how the pleats lay. 


Drafting the draped pleat skirt



sketch showing first steps in drafting draped pleat skirt, adjusting the width of the hem and drawing lines where the pleats will lay.

Using a copy of your skirt block, start by "pegging" the skirt (make it more narrow at the hem). 

In the sketch at left, I've shown a 1" reduction at the side seam (4" total, with 1" each side, front and back). You can experiment with an even more narrow hem, but I wouldn't reduce by more than 1 1/2" at the side hem (that would be 6" total, which is a lot - unless you want to add a vent at the back). 

To start the pleats, draw lines from the point of the darts to the lower side seam, as shown on the sketch at right (Start with the dart closest to center front, as shown above. Both lines must be well below the hip line). 

If your skirt block has only one waist dart, draw a second line from the waist, matching the depth of the first dart, then draw your diagonal line from there. 



Cut the skirt apart along the diagonal lines to separate the pieces. You'll have 3 separate pieces for the front skirt pattern at this point. You can mark the pieces #1, #2 and #3 if you'd like, to keep them in the correct order. 

Spread the pieces 2" apart at the waist (including the original dart width), keeping the pieces in line with the original waistline.

This will force the side seam into a "stepped" configuration - that's OK!  It's correct!

You'll need to keep the 2" distance at the waist of the skirt, so it may help to tape a thread, strip of paper, or just use the tape itself to keep the pieces at that distance AT THE TOP ONLY.  We'll be spreading the pieces at the side seam. 
sketching showing the skirt pattern with the pattern cut along the pleat lines, and the pieces separated 2".
sketch showing the pieces of the skirt spread at the side, creating wide spaces between the pattern pieces

This is where it starts getting tricky. I’m only going through the steps on the front skirt panel, but you will be doing the same steps on the back.

Lay another large piece of paper under the pattern pieces so you have something to draw on and fill in the gaps as you proceed. 

Draw a line 3” above the waist, parallel to the original hip line. (This is the blue line at left).

Then pivot the pieces until the OUTER corner of the side piece touches that line, keeping the pieces 2" apart at the waist. (this is where the tape/thread/etc as described above comes in handy).

Maintain the 2” distance between all the pieces at the waist, while spreading at the side seam only.

Next, draw a line perpendicular to the top line, touching the end point of the outside piece. (The green line, above).

Finally, draw a curved line from the point of the outside piece to the hem. (The outer red line, above). This will be a rather extreme curve!

And it becomes the new side seam of the skirt.
The new skirt shape will include the top line, the perpendicular line, and the curved line,



Your final pattern will look something like the one
at right.

Yes, it’s weird - but this IS an extreme pleated skirt!

Mark the direction of the pleats (the outer fold
should face the side seam).

And don’t forget to make the same changes to the
back skirt!!

I've shown this with a center seam, which will help with the fabric layout.

The straight edge at the top is part of the side seam!  You'll have to stitch the corner, put it makes a sort of "pocket" within the draped pleats. 

sketch showing the final draft of the draped pleat skirt, with the curved side seam and direction of the pleats.

If you want the softer, drapier version, you could try cutting this on the bias, too, for extra drape.  

In any case, MAKE A MOCK-UP before cutting into your fashion fabric.  This one will take some trial and error to get the pleat/drape configuration that works for you and your fabric. 

More Skirts and Dresses
  • Draped Pleat Skirt
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