This pant fits the body well through the waist and hip, with a gentle flair from the hip to the hem.  The leg draft is the same as the pant flared from the hip - the rest is all about that button flap!

This version of the pant also includes a waist facing rather than a waistband.  As a fashion style, I've seen it with a waistband and cuffs, but the more authentic sailor pant pattern does not have those features. Neither does it flare from the knee, although that was commonplace in the 1960's and '70's.

Let's not make this any more complicated than necessary!

Like the basic pant flared from the hip, you'll start (with a copy of your pant block) by drawing a line from the outseam hip line to the hem, adding about 1" at the hem.

On the curved inseam, draw a line from the crotch point to the hem, adding another 1" at the hem.  This line will still have a bit of curve near the crotch point, but it will be straighter than the original line. 

Do the same on both the front and the back pant leg patterns, and you'll be adding 4" in width at the hem of each leg.  

And that completes the leg of the sailor pant pattern!

Start by elongating the 1st dart by 1 1/2” (if there is only one dart, elongate that).

This becomes the front opening and needs to be longer so you’ll be able to get into the pant. Follow the red dashed lines in the sketch at right.

Next, draft the underlap/overlap that will actually close the front pant. Follow the blue dashed line for this:
- follow the front leg of the dart, and the top edge of the pant waist. Extend that line 2” beyond center front.
- draw a vertical line 2” long at the “new” front line, and then draw a nice curve to a point 2” from the point of the dart.

You’ll end up with a pattern piece like the one at left.

You’ll use this piece for both the underlap and overlap, and their corresponding facings (so when you cut the fabric, you’ll cut 4 pieces for each lap). The sketch shows both the underlap and overlap pattern pieces, with button/buttonhole markings as needed. 

The underlap/overlap is where you’ll put the buttons, with 2 buttonholes in the overlap to close the pant at the waist. (Note the small CF arrows on each side - that is where these 2 pieces will overlap). 

To understand how this over/underlap works, set this underlap/overlap piece to the front of the pant piece, as shown at right (in the sketch, the center front part of the pattern is folded down to show the underlap, and this pant has the 2nd dart that is not being used at this point).

Set the underlap piece to the outer leg of the longer dart. When the front section (which is shown folded down) is put back in place, buttoning the finished pant will "close" the dart. 

The video below, showing how to stitch the front facing, makes it all much more clear!

This sketch, while it looks much like the over/underlaps, is for the facing you'll use to finish the center front flap itself (NOT the over/underlaps).

Draw a shape very similar to the underlap, but without the front extension. In fact, the center front will be cut on the fold for a one-piece facing. (follow the green lines on the sketch)

Your final pattern piece for the front flap facing should look like the sketch at right. 

The front flap is where you’ll place the buttonholes (as marked in the sketch), so the facing exists both to finish the edges of the flap, and to reinforce the buttonholes.

When the pant is stitched, the underlap/overlap, flap and facing configuration should look like the sketch at right.  

The white "dots" are the buttons, sewn to the under/overlaps. 

The overlap at the right has 2 buttonholes instead of buttons at center front (This holds these pieces closed - see the markings on the pattern pieces sketch, above).

• Flare Pant

• Sailor Pant

• Flare Shorts

• Tapered Pant

• Pleated Pant

• Yoke (demonstrated on a skirt)