The key to making your own patterns is fit. You can alter commercial patterns to fit, of course, but chances are, you'll be making the same alterations every time you sew. And who wants to do that?
So. how do you ensure fit on everything you sew, and add your own unique style details and features?
You start with a sloper, or block.
What's a sloper or block?
It's a very simple, very bland dress (or pant), devoid of any details - something you'd never wear out of the house!
BUT - you make all of your fit alterations on the basic pattern, and that (adjusted) pattern becomes your sloper/block (the terms are fairly interchangeable - you'll see that I usually use the term "block", but sloper is the same thing).
Once you have a block that fits, you don't have to make the same alterations over and over again!
And how do you get a sloper or block that fits?
You make one yourself!
There are a couple of ways to make and fit your own sloper.
Probably the easiest is to use a commercial fitting pattern. The fitting pattern is, essentially, a dress block - but you still need to make the fit adjustments so the dress fits you, and, going forward, the your fit is built in to everything you design and sew.
This method is more time-consuming, but also somewhat more accurate. Many of the fit alterations will be accommodated in the drafting process. HOWEVER - you will still need to refine the fit to ensure that you've eliminated future alterations!
Craftsy offers courses for drafting the bodice sloper, the skirt sloper, and the pant sloper - and that's everything you need! Each course is taught by Suzy Furrer, an expert in drafting and fit.
Click on the links below to go to the item on Craftsy. As a Craftsy affiliate, I earn a small percentage from qualifying purchases. This helps to keep this site free for your use. You are free to search Craftsy for these or other similar items without using the affiliate links on this page.
- Patternmaking Basics: the Bodice Sloper
- Patternmaking Basics: the Skirt Sloper
- Patternmaking + Design: the Pant Sloper
I strongly urge you to take your time developing your block/sloper. It will save you tons of time in the long run! No more shortening sleeves, adjusting the hip, fixing that annoying gap at the neckline or extra fold of fabric at the armhole - keep working at it until it fits, and everything you make using that block will fit, too!
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