Pattern Making Basics: Slopers and Blocks


The key to making your own patterns is fit.  You can alter commercial patterns to fit, of course, but chances are, you'll be making the same alterations every time you sew.  And who wants to do that?

So. how do you ensure fit on everything you sew, and add your own unique style details and features?  

You start with a sloper, or block. 


fitting pattern on form 1

What's a sloper or block?

It's a very simple, very bland dress (or pant), devoid of any details - something you'd never wear out of the house!

BUT - you make all of your fit alterations on the basic pattern, and that (adjusted) pattern becomes your sloper/block (the terms are fairly interchangeable - you'll see that I usually use the term "block", but sloper is the same thing). 

Once you have a block that fits, you don't have to make the same alterations over and over again!

And how do you get a sloper or block that fits?  

You make one yourself!


How to Make a Sloper

There are a couple of ways to make and fit your own sloper. 

Probably the easiest is to use a commercial fitting pattern.  The fitting pattern is, essentially, a dress block - but you still need to make the fit adjustments so the dress fits you, and, going forward, the your fit is built in to everything you design and sew. 


Or, you can draft a sloper using your own measurements

This method is more time-consuming, but also somewhat more accurate. Many of the fit alterations will be accommodated in the drafting process. HOWEVER - you will still need to refine the fit to ensure that you've eliminated future alterations!

Craftsy offers courses for drafting the bodice sloper, the skirt sloper, and the pant sloper - and that's everything you need! Each course is taught by Suzy Furrer, an expert in drafting and fit.

Click on the links below to go to the item on Craftsy.  As a Craftsy affiliate, I earn a small percentage from qualifying purchases. This helps to keep this site free for your use. You are free to search Craftsy for these or other similar items without using the affiliate links on this page. 

- Patternmaking Basics: the Bodice Sloper

- Patternmaking Basics: the Skirt Sloper

- Patternmaking + Design: the Pant Sloper



I strongly urge you to take your time developing your block/sloper.  It will save you tons of time in the long run!  No more shortening sleeves, adjusting the hip, fixing that annoying gap at the neckline or extra fold of fabric at the armhole - keep working at it until it fits, and everything you make using that block will fit, too!


Need More Help with Fitting Issues?

The examples on this site reflect MY fitting issues and how I resolved them.  Your body is likely very different. 

But, since this is a site about the mechanics of making patterns and not specifically about fitting, I'm not going to address other fit issues here. And believe me, there are others who can address this issue better than me.

Any of the books listed below will help you achieve good fit. You can use the techniques on any pattern; but why make the same corrections over an over again?  Apply the principles to your block, and the fit corrections YOU need will be automatically built in to every pattern you make!

I can recommend any of the following books and an online courses to help you achieve good fit, no matter what your size or shape.  I own or have used almost all of the books on this list, and have been pleased with how they address fit problems.

And there are a couple that address plus sizes, too!

Click on the links below to go to the item in Amazon.  As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This helps to keep this site free for your use. You are free to search Amazon for these or other similar items without using the affiliate links on this page. 

I am also an affiliate of Craftsy, and receive a small commission on their classes.  I have taken several Craftsy classes, and highly recommend them. Click on the text links, below, to find the classes at the Craftsy site. You may need to become a member to access the classes.  


 - Pattern Fitting With Confidence - A very useful book written by the late Nancy Zieman, host of the TV series "Sewing with Nancy". She provides a straightforward, down-to-earth approach to sewing and fitting. Very user-friendly.


 - The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting - I love this book!!! So wonderfully illustrated with photos, using commercial patterns to demonstrate the pattern alterations. It addresses almost any fit problem you might have. So easy to understand and follow!


 -Sewing for Plus Sizes - Creating Clothes that Fit and Flatter  - A great book for Plus sizes!  As a woman gets larger, it's not just the measurements that change - our overall proportions shift, too.  This book addresses the different body types and proportions you commonly see in larger women. Truly helpful for larger women.

- Fitting Solo from Measurements to Muslin - This class shows you how to take your own measuements (fundamental to creating your block), and then make adjustments to the pattern (make these changes to the FITTING pattern for a perfectly fitted block!). You will also make a muslin, as I have described in the block-making process. It's kind of like the instructions on this site, but with video demonstrations!

- Pattern Alterations: Fixing Fit Issues - This course covers pattern alterations to correct a gaping neckline, sleeve issues (including fitting the bicep), and making adjustments to the abdomen and seat areas.

- Plus Size Pattern Fitting and Design - As a size 16 (and only 5'2" tall), I qualify as a Plus size. And I've taken this class with Barbara Deckert - it is FABULOUS! Aside from the fitting tips, she also explains the style lines and silhouettes that are flattering to the Plus size figure. I highly recommend this class!

Step-by-Step: Making and Fitting Your Block



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