How to Draft a Skinny Pant

A skinny pant takes the tapered pant to a whole new level!

The skinny pant (shown in a shorter, capri length) is more contoured and form-fitting. Note that the pant hugs the leg even at the hem.

The pant can be made with woven fabrics while still maintaining fit, function, and comfort.  A bit of stretch in the fabric can help, but these are not knit leggings (and the pattern is not intended for a stretchy knit fabric). 

And they look great at almost any length!  I'll show you a capri length, but they're attractive at any length from just below the knee to just above the ankle.

sketch of woman wearing skinny capri pants in blue

I realize that capris are not a popular style at the moment, but they had a good 20-year run, and they, like any style, come and go in the fashion world. 

I'm showing this length simply because it's mid-way between the pedal-pusher (just below the knee) and the ankle pant (just above the ankle).

Note that the sketch also shows the pant sitting just under the natural waist, with a facing rather than a waistband.  This is based on a popular style from the 1960's, so it has a very retro/vintage look. 

A well-fitting skinny pant requires a bit of math to draft.  To fit closely to your body, you'll need your knee and ankle measurements.  Measure your knee just above the kneecap and your ankle at the ankle bone.  In the example below, I've used 15" as the knee measurement and 9 1/2" for the ankle. 

The rest (waist and hip) will come from your personal, well-fitting pant block. 

This pant also fits closely at the crotch.

Start by shortening the back crotch 1” at the crotch point, and the front crotch point by 1/2“.

Using your knee and ankle measurements, taper the pant leg so that it measures 2” larger than the knee and 1 1/2“ at the ankle. (This is the ease for the skinny leg). 

pattern for pant with very tapered (skinny) leg

So, in this example,  a 15” knee plus 2" ease = 17” pant circumference @ knee line. 

The back leg is always about 1" wider than the front (due to the derriere), so make the leg 8" wide at the knee on the front leg, 9" on the back leg. (8 + 9 = 17").  These measurements should be balanced evenly on either side of the center/grainline, as shown above (ie, the 8" width on the front leg has 4" either side of the grainline).

The process for the ankle is the same.  A 9 1/2" ankle plus 1 1/2" ease = 11" at the leg opening.  The pant is still 1" wider on the back leg, so make the opening 5" wide on the front leg and 6" on the back, evenly balancing those measurements at the grainline.  

Make marks on the pattern tracing to reflect your measurements, then draw a smooth, curved inseam and outseam as shown above. 

final pattern for skinny pant, with markings for hem and lowered waistline

That's it for tapering the leg on the skinny pant!  

Now - choose a length you like (I've illustrated the capri length, but just above the ankle is a great look for this pant, too).  

I've also illustrated the lowered waist - not exactly hip-hugger, but an attractive, torso-lengthening position for the top of the pant. You'd finish the waistline with a facing rather than a waistband in this instance. And, of course, seam allowances and hems!

This is an instance in which a muslin fitting is essential!  The pant should fit well, and you should be able to move in it even with the very skinny leg.  But, before cutting your fashion fabric, make a muslin to ensure that everything works as planned!

More Pant Styles

sketch of woman wearing blue flared sailor pants
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